Yamagata in northern Tohoku is the one region in Japan with a ‘geographical indication’ for sake. This is a nationally registered appellation that certifies a sake’s origin and quality, and is recognised by the World Trade Organisation. The sake-brewing water of Yamagata comes from the surrounding snowy mountains and has a high mineral content, which generally creates a sake with a crisp, sharp finish. Look out for Yamagata sake bottles that are marked with the label ‘DEWA33’, which indicates 100 percent of its ingredients come from Yamagata, so you can expect the distinct flavour profile of Yamagata sake to shine through.